Japan is a country, like many others, with a vast array of dishes and incredible regionality of cuisine. Many dishes immediately come to mind when one thinks of Japanese food, with a number of these dishes being adapted from foreign dishes, such as ramen. Despite this apparent popularity of Japanese cuisine around the world, most dishes with deep cultural roots in Japan do not seem to have received the same level of attention. This inspired me to develop the following series of posts, where I explore lesser-known foods from various countries and try to gather information from source material of the country of interest.
The Cultural Significance of Kyoto
When thinking about traditional Japanese culture, there is one city that immediately captures the attention and imagination of anyone who is interested in Japan: Kyoto. For nearly 700 years from the feudal period all the way until the end of the Edo period — a period of incredible cultural flourishment in Japan — Kyoto was the capital city of the country. This historical Japanese influence continues to be felt in Kyoto to this day, making it an important cultural destination in the country.
During the Edo period, when cities began to grow and prosper, Kyoto residents, particularly merchants, made use of local and seasonal ingredients to make home cooked meals comprised of many smaller dishes accompanied by rice and soup. This style of home cooking would later come to be known as obanzai and is one of four major culinary traditions hailing from Kyoto, of which the most famous is undoubtedly the globally recognized kaiseki.
Obanzai dishes are often vegetable dishes, with there being some seafood dishes and little meat dishes. Additionally, dishes are prepared in advance so they are often served cool or at room temperature. These factors may provide a clue as to why this style of cooking has slowly gone out of fashion, with the popularity of meat skyrocketing globally over the past couple of centuries and many preferring hot foods with meals. Regardless, this cuisine seems to be viewed as nostalgic by people in Kyoto and something that is reminiscent of a grandmother’s cooking.
Winter
An example of an ingredient used in obanzai dishes is okouko — pickled daikon. The daikon is specifically selected for pickling based on a textured exterior and a short size. The daikon is then pickled using rice bran along with salt and sugar over the course of several months through the warm months in barrels. As it ferments, the daikon takes on a particular flavour unique to each household based on slight variations in the bacteria present in each home. Other additions may be added to adjust the flavour during fermentation as well, like persimmon peels. With this ingredient, dishes like Okouko no Zeitaku can be made.
Recipe: Okouko no Zeitaku (Luxurious Pickled Radish)
A traditional Kyoto dish featuring okouko (pickled daikon radish) with umami-rich dried sardines and a touch of spice.
Ingredients
- Okouko (pickled daikon radish)
- Dried sardines
- Red chili pepper
- Light soy sauce
- Mirin
- Sake
- Water
Instructions
- Soak the okouko in cold water to remove excess salt. Drain and cut into bite-sized pieces.
- Place the dried sardines in a pot with water and bring to a simmer.
- Add the sake and continue to simmer.
- Add the okouko pieces and red chili pepper to the pot.
- Add mirin and light soy sauce and simmer on low heat.
- Remove from heat and let cool before serving at room temperature.
Note: The saltiness of okouko can vary, so adjust the soaking time accordingly. This dish is traditionally served at room temperature as part of an obanzai meal.
Spring
Spring is marked by the arrival of cherry blossoms and two common seasonal spring ingredients include bamboo shoots and butterbur. Japanese butterbur, also referred to as fuki, is a tall plant with a variety of proposed health benefits, but apparently also slightly toxic if prepared incorrectly. This plant supposedly tastes like a slightly more bitter celery or cucumber.
Recipe: Fuki no Taitan (Simmered Japanese Butterbur)
A delicate spring dish featuring the unique flavor of Japanese butterbur stems.
Ingredients
- Fuki (Japanese butterbur) stems
- Dashi stock
- Sake
- Light soy sauce
- Salt
- Bonito flakes
Instructions
- Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add the fuki stems and boil (time depends on thickness).
- Drain and immediately transfer to cold water to stop the cooking process.
- When cool enough to handle, peel off the outer skin of the stems.
- In a separate pot, combine dashi, sake, light soy sauce, and salt, bringing to a gentle simmer.
- Add the peeled fuki stems to the broth and simmer until tender.
- Serve in small bowls with some of the cooking liquid and garnish with bonito flakes.
Note: Proper preparation of fuki is important to remove any bitterness. The stems should be boiled in salted water before cooking to ensure they’re safe to eat and have a pleasant flavor.
Recipe: Takenoko to Konbu no Taitan (Bamboo Shoots with Kelp)
A simple yet flavorful spring dish combining the subtle sweetness of bamboo shoots with the umami of kelp.
Ingredients
- Parboiled bamboo shoots (takenoko)
- Dried kelp (konbu)
- Dashi stock
- Dried bonito flakes
- Mirin
- Light soy sauce
- Salt
Instructions
- Soak the kelp in water until slightly softened.
- In a pot, combine the soaked kelp, dashi, bamboo shoots, bonito flakes, mirin, and light soy sauce.
- Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce heat and simmer until the kelp is soft and wavy.
- Taste and add salt if necessary.
- Remove the kelp and bamboo shoots from the broth and arrange on a serving plate.
- Sprinkle with additional bonito flakes before serving.
Summer
As the season changes from spring to summer, the availability of a variety of fresh vegetables and a desire for refreshing dishes increases. Summer is also the peak season for aji (Japanese horse mackerel), which gets its name in English from its resemblance to what is referred to in English-speaking countries as mackerel but is in fact a different family of fish.
A popular aji dish prepared across Japan as a homestyle cooking dish is Aji no Nanbanzuke. This dish consists of fried fish topped with spicy and acidic elements. Though seemingly less unique to Kyoto, this is a dish present in obanzai cuisine that seems worth mentioning due to its deep cultural roots. This dish dates back to hundreds of years ago, potentially being introduced to Japan by the Portuguese in the 16th century. The name provides a clue into this history, as the term nanban, literally meaning “southern barbarian,” was a term used to refer to the Portuguese visiting Japan.
Recipe: Aji no Nanbanzuke (Marinated Fried Horse Mackerel)
A traditional Japanese dish with historical Portuguese influence, featuring fried mackerel in a tangy, spicy marinade.
Ingredients
- Aji (Japanese horse mackerel) — 4 small fish, gutted and filleted
- Spikenard / Udo
- Onion
- Carrot
- Red chilies
- Rice vinegar
- Sugar
- Water
- Salt
- Light soy sauce
- All-purpose flour
- Vegetable oil
Instructions
- Season the fish fillets with salt and pepper, then coat with flour.
- Heat oil in a frying pan and fry the fish until golden and crisp on both sides. Remove and set aside.
- In the same pan, sauté carrots and onions until softened.
- For the marinade, combine red chilies, rice vinegar, sugar, water, and soy sauce in a bowl and mix well.
- Place the fried fish in a shallow dish, top with the sautéed vegetables, and pour the marinade over.
- If using, sprinkle the thinly sliced spikenard/udo on top.
- Let marinade in the refrigerator before serving.
Note: This dish tastes even better after marinating overnight. It can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
Recipe: Manganji Togarashi no Yaki-Zuke (Grilled and Pickled Manganji Peppers)
A simple summer dish highlighting Kyoto’s prized Manganji peppers.
Ingredients
- Manganji peppers
- Light soy sauce
- Sake
- Dried bonito flakes
Instructions
- Skewer the Manganji peppers and grill over an open flame or in a broiler until golden brown and slightly blistered on all sides.
- In a bowl, combine light soy sauce and sake.
- Place the grilled peppers in the marinade while still hot and let cool to room temperature.
- To serve, arrange peppers on a plate and sprinkle with bonito flakes.
Autumn
Autumn brings cooler weather and as such warmer dishes to soothe the soul. One staple ingredient in Japan during the fall is potatoes and sweet potatoes. Another ingredient available in the summer and autumn in Kyoto is ayu sweetfish. This fish is found in both amphidromous and freshwater forms, with the freshwater form present in Lake Biwa, near Kyoto. Migrations occur, separately, in early summer and autumn, and the fish is known for its sweet and delicate flavour. While this fish can be found at restaurants and food stalls simply grilled or fried as tempura, obanzai cuisine also contains stewed recipes for this ingredient in autumn, when the fish are preparing for spawning — at which time they are referred to as komochi-ayu.
Recipe: Kurama Ayu no Anba Ni (Kurama Stewed Ayu Sweetfish)
A unique autumnal dish from Kyoto using bancha (green tea) as a cooking liquid for sweetfish.
Ingredients
- Ayu sweetfish
- Bancha (low-grade green tea)
- Simmered sansho berries
- Sake
- Rice vinegar
- Mirin
- Sugar
- Soy sauce
Instructions
- Grill the ayu sweetfish over charcoal or under a broiler until browned on both sides.
- Place the grilled fish in a pot and add the brewed bancha tea and rice vinegar.
- Bring to a simmer and cook.
- Add mirin and sugar, continuing to simmer.
- Finally, add sake, soy sauce, and simmered sansho berries.
- Serve in small bowls with some of the cooking liquid.
Note: Bancha tea adds a unique flavor to this dish that complements the sweetness of the fish. If ayu is unavailable, small trout can be substituted.
Conclusion
Obanzai is ultimately simple Japanese homestyle cooking utilizing local, in-season ingredients. Not only do culinary traditions like obanzai capture a glimpse of history, but they also provide inspiration for anyone looking to change their current diet. It is evident based on these recipes that this style of cooking is healthy whilst also creating delicious recipes through creative methods and prized seasonal ingredients. Dining is not only for fuel but also involves culture, health, beauty and so much more. Obanzai appears to capture the essence of dining perfectly.